Academic Regalia in the United States: A History of Tradition and Evolution

The tradition of wearing academic regalia—the formal gowns, hoods, and caps worn during university ceremonies—is a cornerstone of higher education in the United States. While these garments may seem like mere formality today, they represent a complex evolution of European influence, institutional identity, and a gradual move toward national standardization.

The Colonial Period and Early Traditions

Academic dress in America began during the Colonial Colleges period, drawing heavily from European styles. In the mid-18th century, institutions like the College of New Jersey (now Princeton University) and King's College (now Columbia University) mandated that students wear "college habits" daily, starting in 1755 and 1763, respectively.

However, this daily requirement was short-lived. By the early 19th century, contemporary records indicate that academic dress was rarely worn as part of a daily wardrobe.

The 19th Century: Divergent Styles

Following the American Civil War, academic regalia transitioned from daily wear to ceremonial attire, used primarily for official institutional representation. While most universities shifted to occasional use, some traditions persisted; for instance, a specific student society at Sewanee continued wearing gowns to class.

Before a national standard existed, universities created their own rules, leading to significant inconsistency. The University of Pennsylvania, for example, abolished hoods in 1887, opting instead for eight faculty colors displayed on the gowns' yokes (the shoulder piece of the gown). Meanwhile, Columbia introduced the first known American use of three velvet stripes on the sleeves in December 1887, with black velvet for masters and purple for doctors.

Other institutions experimented with color and shape. In 1891, New York University (NYU) adopted the Edinburgh shape for its hoods—a style later adopted by Harvard in 1902. That same year, Princeton graduates began wearing black gowns with an orange stripe, marking one of the first instances of a gown incorporating corporate university colors. Other departures included Hampden-Sydney's gray gowns in 1893 and the University of the South's adoption of Oxford-style gowns for higher degrees.

The Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume

To resolve the lack of consistency, Princeton trustee John J. McCook sought to create a uniform system that could identify a wearer's degree, faculty, and alma mater. In 1894 or 1895, delegates from Princeton, Yale, and NYU met at Columbia, guided by technical adviser Gardner Cotrell Leonard, a manufacturer of academic dress.

On March 16, 1895, they adopted the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume. Based largely on Columbia's statutes, the Code defined materials and cuts and established eight colors to represent different fields of learning. Interestingly, the Code remained vague on hood shapes; most Americans eventually adopted the Wales simple shape with a split-salmon cut, originally worn by Oxford bachelors.

20th Century Refinements and Social Shifts

The American Council on Education (ACE) oversaw several revisions to the Code throughout the 20th century to modernize the attire and clarify its meaning.

Revisions of 1932 and 1959

In 1932, the ACE shortened the master's hood from four feet to three-and-one-half feet and introduced the chevron for hood linings containing multiple colors. A more comprehensive update in 1959 (effective 1960) introduced several functional and symbolic changes:

• The arm slit on master's gowns was moved from the elbow to the wrist.
• Gowns for masters and doctors could now be worn either open or closed.
• Colors were linked to specific disciplines rather than broad faculties (e.g., maize for Agriculture instead of golden yellow).
• Soft, square caps were introduced as an alternative to the mortarboard for women.
• Tassels were permitted in colors other than black.

Cultural Upheaval and Resurgence

During the 1960s, academic regalia became a target of socio-political protest. In the wake of the Vietnam War and the Civil Rights Movement, many students eschewed gowns as a symbol of anti-establishment views. This led to a relaxation of ceremonial protocols and the cancellation of some graduation ceremonies. However, since the 1980s, there has been a general resurgence in the use of academic dress.

Later Adjustments: 1973 and 1987

The 1973 revisions introduced the "flat shield hood" (essentially a cape) for associate degrees and a specific hood length (3 feet 9 inches) for six-year specialist degrees. This period also saw some confusion regarding faculty colors, with conflicting guidance on whether colors should follow the degree title or the discipline.

By 1987, the ACE clarified that all Ph.D. graduates should wear dark blue as their faculty color. Other changes included removing the women's soft cap option, eliminating sapphire blue for business degrees, and removing specific material requirements (such as cotton or silk) for gowns and hoods.

Modern Application: Rules vs. Guidelines

The current Code emphasizes that it is a set of guidelines rather than enforceable rules. It acknowledges that the governing force of academic costume is tradition and the continuity of symbols from the Middle Ages, suggesting that these traditions should be preserved as much as possible.

In the 21st century, academic dress is primarily reserved for commencement, baccalaureate services, convocation, and matriculation. Notably, the tradition has expanded beyond higher education, with graduation ceremonies now common in elementary, middle, and high schools.

Key Facts

• Origin: US academic dress began in the Colonial period, influenced by European styles.
• Standardization: The Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume was adopted on March 16, 1895.
• Ph.D. Color: Since 1987, dark blue has been the standardized faculty color for all Ph.D. graduates.
• Hood Shape: While the Code is vague, the Wales simple shape is the most common version used in the US.
• Evolution: Regalia shifted from daily wear in the 1700s to strictly ceremonial use by the late 19th century.

Period/Year	Key Change/Event	Impact
1755–1763	Colonial Mandates	Daily wear required at Princeton and Columbia.
1895	Intercollegiate Code	Established uniform cuts and faculty colors.
1959	ACE Revision	Linked colors to disciplines; introduced women's soft caps.
1960s	Student Protests	Decline in regalia use due to anti-establishment views.
1987	Doctoral Clarification	Standardized dark blue for all Ph.D. faculty colors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do different degrees have different colors?

Colors are used to identify the wearer's specific field of learning or discipline. This system was formalized in the 1895 Intercollegiate Code and further refined in 1959 to distinguish between specific disciplines rather than broad faculties.

What is the purpose of the velvet stripes on a gown?

Introduced by Columbia University in 1887, the three velvet stripes on the sleeves distinguish higher degrees. For masters, the velvet is typically black, while for doctors, it is traditionally purple.

Is the Academic Code a strict law for universities?

No. The current version of the Code describes itself as permissive, noting that it is impossible to lay down enforceable rules. It serves as a set of general guidelines based on tradition.

Why did some students stop wearing gowns in the 1960s?

During the 1960s, eschewing academic regalia became a way for students to express anti-establishment views, particularly in protest of the Vietnam War and in support of the Civil Rights Movement.

What is the difference between a faculty color and a discipline color?

Originally, colors represented broad faculties (e.g., Science). After 1959, the ACE shifted toward discipline-specific colors, meaning a Master of Science in Agriculture would wear maize instead of the general golden yellow for science.